A step-by-step, 90-day plan for disputing errors, negotiating collections, and rebuilding your score with rights you already have under federal law. Plain English, with every letter you'll need.
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The book is laid out like a route. Each chapter gives you one job, the letter or tool to do it, and what to expect next.
How FICO is calculated, what each score range unlocks, and the rights the three bureaus have to respect.
Pull all three reports, flag every negative item, and build the dispute tracker that runs your whole campaign.
Dispute inaccurate and unverifiable items under FCRA §611, with the letter and the 30-day timeline.
Ask creditors to remove accurate, isolated late payments: who to write to, what to say, and when.
Negotiate collections in writing before you pay, without restarting the statute of limitations by accident.
Authorized-user accounts, secured cards, and credit-builder loans that add positive history while disputes run.
Why your statement closing date matters more than your due date, and how to report 1–9% every month.
Dispute hard inquiries you didn't authorize, and request your full file under FCRA §609.
Build a separate business credit profile once your personal score passes 680.
The 15-minutes-a-month routine that keeps a 700+ score where it is.
Every task, week by week, in the order to do them. It's also on this page as a tracker.
Bureau addresses, bank executive offices, a score-impact cheat sheet, and the key consumer laws.
The order to tackle your money in, investing basics, protecting what you build, and a wealth maintenance calendar.
59 pages of letters, tables, a week-by-week plan, and a bonus wealth-building section. Tap any page to see it full size.
The Nuclear Audit walks you through pulling all three reports, spotting every negative item, and setting up your dispute tracker. It's the first step no matter what's on your report.
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Six tools built on the same rules the book uses. Nothing you type here leaves your browser.
Enter the day your letter was delivered. The legal clock starts when they receive it, not when you mail it.
Based on FCRA §611(a)(1) and (a)(6) for credit bureaus, and FCRA §623(a)(8) with Regulation V §1022.43 for direct disputes. Dates are estimates: weekends, holidays, and mail time can shift them. If a deleted item later reappears, the bureau must tell you in writing within five business days.
Two clocks run on every old debt: how long it can stay on your credit report, and how long a collector can sue. Paying the wrong debt the wrong way can restart the second one.
Credit reporting limits: FCRA §605. Lawsuit limits: state-by-state table from Consumer Rights Law Firm PLLC (updated July 2026), with New York's 2022 and Ohio's 2021 changes applied. Courts disagree on whether credit card debt is an "open account" or a "written contract," so card results show both. This is general information, not legal advice. Confirm with your state attorney general or a consumer attorney before you pay or acknowledge an old debt.
The balance on your statement closing date is what gets reported. Enter one card at a time.
Drag to see roughly how lenders and landlords treat each range.
Select the strategies that apply to your report. The total uses the midpoint of each range in the book; your real change depends on your whole file.
Estimated removal rates from Chapter 2 of the book, by item type. They apply to items that are inaccurate or can't be verified. Accurate, verified items can legally stay.
Not a guarantee. Separately, federal law sets hard limits: most negative items must come off seven years after the first delinquency, and Chapter 7 bankruptcies after ten years.
This is the Chapter 12 plan as a tracker. Set your start date and check off tasks; your progress stays in this browser so you can pick up where you left off.
Saved on this device only. Clearing your browser data clears your progress.
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The complete 59-page guide
The book, plus every letter ready to edit
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Yes. The Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA) gives you the right to dispute inaccurate or incomplete information with the credit bureaus and with the companies that report it, for free. The Credit Repair Organizations Act (CROA) confirms you never have to pay a company to do what you can do yourself. This book shows you how to use those rights.
Information that's inaccurate, incomplete, or can't be verified must be corrected or deleted. Accurate negative information can legally stay for up to seven years (ten for some bankruptcies), although creditors sometimes agree to remove it through goodwill requests or written pay-for-delete agreements.
No one can legally promise to remove accurate, verified information. Be wary of anyone who does.
Utilization changes can show up within one billing cycle. Bureaus generally have 30 days to investigate a dispute, or 45 in some cases. Most of the book's work plays out over 90 days, and some items take more than one round. Results vary from file to file.
Yes. The book starts from wherever you are. Chapters 5 and 6 cover building positive history from a thin or damaged file, including secured cards that don't require a credit check.
No. Disputes and checking your own reports don't lower your score. One thing to plan around: if you're applying for a mortgage, lenders may need open disputes resolved before closing, so finish disputes before you apply.
It can. The statute of limitations (how long a collector can sue) is set by your state, and in some states a payment or written acknowledgment restarts it. That's separate from the seven-year credit reporting clock, which paying doesn't reset. Run the Debt age tool and read Chapter 4 before you offer anything.
The three bureaus don't include paid medical collections, medical collections under $500, or medical collections less than a year old. If one of those is on your report, dispute it. Some states have stricter rules.
Report it at IdentityTheft.gov, place a free fraud alert with one bureau (it notifies the other two), and freeze your credit with all three. With an identity theft report, bureaus must block the fraudulent information within four business days under FCRA §605B. The Complete Kit includes the block-request letter.
A request under FCRA §609 for a copy of everything in your file and where it came from. It's useful for finding errors, but it doesn't force deletion on its own; disputes under §611 do that. Read the full guide.
No. It's a one-time payment for the PDF, yours to keep, and it's covered by the 30-day money-back guarantee. The Complete Kit is a separate one-time $19 option.
No. Credit Repair Map is an educational guide. We don't contact bureaus or creditors on your behalf. If you want personal help, a nonprofit credit counselor (find one through NFCC.org) can review your budget and debts, and a consumer attorney can take on serious reporting errors.
Credit repair companies use the same federal dispute rights this book teaches. Under CROA they must tell you that you can dispute errors yourself for free, and they can't charge you until the work is done. Most charge monthly fees. The book costs $10, once.
Plain-English explanations of the letters people search for most, with sample wording you can use.
How to request your full credit file, and why it doesn't delete anything on its own.
Read the guide CollectionsHow to negotiate a deletion in writing before you pay, with a sample offer.
Read the guide Late paymentsWhen creditors say yes, who to send it to, and a sample you can adapt.
Read the guideWe reply within 24–48 hours, Monday through Friday. Please don't send account numbers, your Social Security number, or copies of your reports.
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